
Dinner is always nice by moonlight, and pesto always tastes better after a twelve mile hike. As for atmosphere, it is tough to beat a glacial lake in the high sierra surrounded by twelve thousand foot peaks.
There really isn't much you can say about a trip like this. The only way to appreciate the stunning beauty of the Yosemite back country is to go and see it for yourself. Emily and I set out from the backpackers at Tolumne meadows and followed the John Muir trail up Lyell canyon. The sand in the creek bed was flecked with gold, and we wished we had brought a pan.

Emily and I camped at Ireland lake the first night. We had spent more money than we meant to on food for the trip, but we sure ate well, and there is no one I would rather have shared s meal by moonlight at 11.000 feet with(image 2).
Our second day we hiked cross country to Vogelsang lake (image 3),

What I had failed to notice was that the contour lines were in fact 200 feet apart. Hours later, when we were taking a rest break on the top of the 12,000 mountain rage we had climbed over (image 4), I made a mental note to study maps more carefully in the future. Throughout the climb , Emily trucked along with infailable grace and good humor. I was duly impressed, but vowed not to put her or myself in such a situation again if I could avoid it.

Anyway, after I returned to camp we hiked up past Merced lake and camped near clouds rest. On the way there, we got hit by a thunderstorm. It was kind of scary, as we were at high altitude, at times on exposed rock awash with torrents of runnoff. Still, we pushed on and were rewarded with a stunning view of a double rainbow. And once the sun came out, everything was sparkling. When the raindrops caught the light the forest turned into a surreal place, and the sun warmed us, and the world felt brand new.
The next day was to be our last on the trail. We reached the base of half dome around three in the afternoon, hid our packs, and headed for the summit. It was a steep climb, but without packs we felt weightless. However, when we reached the last section of the climb, a steep sheer rock wall with cables attached to anchors pounded into the rock, Emily decided she had had enough climbing . She waited patiently while I topped out. It was a sight to behold, but I knew we had to finish our hike before sunset, becuase the last miles of the the trail were steep and treacherous.

We passed little Yosemite and headed tward Nevada falls. We hit the falls but it was already sunset so we had no choice but to keep on going. Descending the cliffs in the dark would have been very difficult. Passing vernal falls(image 5), we remembered the time we had spent there on a previous visit. But now, in the dusk, we kept trucking, silently, then singing. Down down down we went. At last, in the dark, we hit pavement and civilisation.

